Editor’s note: I’ve done my best to provide you with as clear a buyer’s guide as possible, so don’t hesitate to leave your comments if you don’t like (or like!) something, or would like more information!
For those who’d like a more advanced version or more details, go below the easy-to-buy guide!
The Easy 11-Point Sapphire Buying Guide!
The Advanced Sapphire Buying Guide!
Along with ruby, sapphire belongs to the corundum family. It is considered one of the four gemstones along with emerald, ruby and diamond, making it one of the most sought-after but also most counterfeited stones.
Unfortunately, the gem and jewelry sector remains highly opaque, and continues to benefit from misinformed buyers and lax laws. Counterfeits, imitations and deceptive practices are commonplace, as you can see in this French survey:
According to a DGCCRF investigation, 28% of French gemdealing establishments inspected did not comply with transparency laws designed to protect buyers.
“Overall, operators seem to be largely unaware of the names of the stones or pearls. Similarly, the treatments applied to these materials are very rarely indicated on labels.”
DGCCRF – Quality and conformity of jewelry with gemstones or pearls
This guide has been created to help you see things more clearly.
By the end of this buying guide, you’ll know:
- The main colors and varieties of sapphire, and their relative prices
- The different origins of Sapphire production and their reputation
- The most common treatments applied to Sapphire and their impact on the stone and its price
- Relative prices of sapphire according to its characteristics (color, size, carat, clarity, origin, treatments, etc.).
- The most common pitfalls to avoid when choosing a stone
- The existing labels for Eco-responsibility and ethics
- Which jewelry to choose with this stone and my main tips
To find out more about the benefits, history and formation of sapphire, follow the encyclopedia links to Sapphire, Ruby or Corundum!
Physical Characteristics
Sapphire Colors
Note: The duller or greyer they are, the lower their value. Conversely, the purer the color, the more they will be appreciated. Light to medium colors are also more popular than overly dark colors approaching black.
Color is also appreciated when it is uniform throughout the stone, without discoloration.
Synthetic sapphires are generally pure and brightly colored.
 |  |  |  |  |  |
| White | Colorless | Grey | Black | Brown | Orange |
 |  |  |  |  |  |
| Yellow | Green | Blue | Purple | Pink | Two-tone |
The Optical Effects of Sapphire
 |  |  |
| Asterism | Cat’s Eye | Color Change |
Purity / Clarity
Purity or clarity refers to the presence and visibility of internal and external inclusions or imperfections in the gem. In other words, the more transparent and devoid of inclusions a stone is, the clearer or purer it will be considered, and the more valuable it will be.
Warning: The opposite case is observed when inclusions are searched for! Asterism, or star effect for example, is due to the presence of numerous inclusions in the stone, as is Cat’s Eye.
If the stone has many inclusions (usually other trapped minerals, small fractures, liquid or closing “wounds”), it will be more opaque, if not totally opaque.
Cut
The cut refers to the shape given to the gem by a specialist. The way the sapphire is cut, and especially the quality of the cut, can influence its value. However, we are entering the territory of an almost professional purchase that is difficult to describe, especially on stones already set in a piece of jewelry.
As a general rule: if you look at your cut sapphire with facets from above, and observe dark areas as if the light isn’t reflecting in certain places, chances are the cut isn’t very qualitative.
Carat
A carat is a weight unit ! Weight plays a major role in the price of a sapphire (and of a stone in general), but it’s not always easy to calculate.
As a general rule: Take a pack of candy, for example. The smaller the pack you buy, the more you risk paying per kilo. Conversely, if you buy in bulk, you’ll pay less per kilo.
This is often the case with stones! Smaller stones are priced higher per carat, then lower and lower.
Exception: In the case of stones that are rare, of exceptional quality or notoriously difficult to find in large sizes, the reverse may apply. They can become increasingly expensive per carat as their weight increases.
Origins and Their Impact
Please note: Origins are rarely mentioned, yet they are important! Don’t hesitate to send an e-mail to the sales department of the brand you’re interested in if you have the slightest doubt; they’ll be able to answer you about the origin of their products. If they’re vague or don’t reply, move on!
Warning: Some sellers use the name of the origin to describe a color (e.g. cashmere for a blue-violet velvet, without respecting the original origin). Always check that the name corresponds to the sapphire’s origin.
| Origin | Rarity | Quality | Color | Special features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kashmir (India/Pakistan) | ????? | ????? | Velvety, saturated blue-violet | Very rare, considered to be the best |
| Ceylon (Sri Lanka) | ????? | ????? | Bright blue, clear, Padparadscha (pink-orange) | Exceptional purity, vibrant shine |
| Mogok (Myanmar) | ????? | ????? | Deep, intense blue, sometimes pink or yellow | Intense saturation, renowned mines |
| Madagascar | ????? | ????? | Bright blue, fancy sapphires | Wide variety, rising quality |
| Montana | ????? | ????? | Pale blue to blue-grey, fancy sapphires | Good clarity, exceptional color at Yogo Gulch |
| Thailand | ????? | ????? | Dark blue, often with greenish hues, fancy sapphires | Often treated, good quality after treatment |
| France | ????? | ????? | Varies (blue, green, yellow, sometimes fancy sapphires) | Rare, often small with inclusions |
| Cambodia | ????? | ????? | Blue, often dark, sometimes fancy sapphires | Less well known, often treated |
| Australia | ????? | ????? | Dark blue with green hues, fancy sapphires (particularly green and yellow) | Abundant, often less expensive, some high-quality specimens |
Treatments And Their Consequences
Please note: Here again, the treatment is important to note when buying a sapphire, or a stone in general, as it can affect its value! Few sellers choose to be transparent about the treatments they receive, mainly for fear of being misperceived by the customer, and even if I can understand this, it contributes to the opacity of this business, and therefore to the insecurity of buyers.
| Treatment | Descriptions | Life Expectancy | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heating | High-temperature heating to enhance color and clarity. | Permanent | The most common, difficult to detect without specialized equipment. |
| Thermal diffusion | Use of heat and chemicals to introduce foreign elements (such as beryllium) into sapphire to color it. | Permanent | Alters the color of the entire stone in depth |
| Radiation treatment | Exposure to radiation to alter the color of sapphires. | Fairly durable (color may fade with age or sunlight on some) | Mainly used for fancy sapphires. |
| Surface diffusion treatment | Surface treatment with high-temperature coloring agents to improve surface color. | Fairly durable (color can wear off) | Colors can wear and fade if the stone is frequently polished or resharpened |
| Fracture filling | Use of glass or other materials to fill fractures in sapphire. | Less durable (may require care) | Improves clarity, but less stable under pressure or heat. |
| Coating treatment | Application of a thin coating on the surface to enhance color. | Not very durable (coating can wear off) | The coating can wear away with scratches and rubbing, exposing the natural color. |
Synthetic Sapphires
Synthetic sapphires are created in laboratories following the same formation process as natural sapphires.
- They are generally purer and come in a wide variety of colors.
- It’s also possible to reproduce optical effects such as star sapphire or color-changing sapphire!
- They represent more affordable alternatives (up to 90% less expensive than their natural equivalent).
- It is, for many, more responsible (of course, this depends on the laboratories, their working conditions and their energy management).
Warning: sellers who fail to specify the nature of the sapphires! It’s important to choose trustworthy interlocutor, as it’s becoming increasingly difficult to recognize synthetic sapphires.
Personally I love synthetics, I find them incredible from a scientific, technological and visual point of view! I love the idea of leaving the original to the Earth, but having a perfect reproduction of it, born of our ingenuity!
Price of Sapphires
Please note: Unlike diamonds, the price of colored stones is neither fixed nor controlled! It depends entirely on the market, on supply and demand.
As my teacher would say: “A gem costs what a person is willing to pay for it”. When buying jewelry, the price also depends on the popularity of the seller or designer, the rarity of his creations, the time and country of manufacture, and the materials used.
So obviously that doesn’t make it easy for me. However, I have researched and noted the variations that can be found according to the different characteristics of sapphire! This will give you an idea of the type of sapphire you can look for according to your desires and budget.
How to read these tables: This is not a precise evaluation, but an estimate of the influence of each of its characteristics on its final price. Unfortunately, the price of a sapphire varies enormously according to its specific features. so I can’t be as precise as I’d like. To give you an idea, natural blue sapphires can be found from €3 to €60,000 per carat!
Price per Color/Variety
| Color/Variety | Price |
|---|---|
| Blue | ????? |
| Padparadscha | ????? |
| Purple | ???? |
| Pink | ???? |
| Two-tone | ???? |
| Orange | ??? |
| Yellow | ??? |
| White | ?? |
| Colorless | ?? |
| Green | ?? |
| Grey | ? |
| Black (except black star sapphire) | ? |
| Brown | ? |
Price by Origin
| Origin | Price |
|---|---|
| Kashmir | ????? |
| Ceylon | ???? |
| Mogok | ???? |
| France | ??? |
| Montana | ??? |
| Thailand | ?? |
| Cambodia | ?? |
| Madagascar | ? |
| Australia | ? |
Prices by Optical Effects
| Optical effects | Price |
|---|---|
| Color change | ????? |
| Asterism | ???? |
| Cat’s Eye | ??? |
Price per Carat
| Carat (general case) | Price |
|---|---|
| 2-4.99 carat | ????? |
| 1-1.99 carat | ???? |
| 5-7.99 carat | ??? |
| <0.99 carat | ?? |
| 8+ carat | ? |
Price per Treatment
| Treatments | Price |
|---|---|
| Natural | ????? |
| Heating | ???? |
| Thermal diffusion | ??? |
| Surface diffusion treatment | ?? |
| Radiation treatment | ?? |
| Fracture filling | ?? |
| Coating treatment | ? |
Price per Purity
| Purity (excluding optical effects) | Price |
|---|---|
| Pure | ????? |
| Slightly included | ???? |
| Included | ??? |
| Very included | ?? |
| Opaque | ?? |
Pitfalls To Avoid
- Misleading names, e.g. “Kashmir sapphire” to refer to a blue-violet velvet sapphire, and not to a geographical origin.
- Take the time to call or e-mail to find out which one it is.
- Compare relative prices using the table above, to avoid paying full price for a sapphire that’s only worth half as much.
- Beware of imitations and synthetics, which are often sold in place of sapphires.
- Choose sellers who specialize in the stone you are looking for or who have a label.
- Avoid all popular sales sites such as Etsy, Ebay, Aliexpress, etc. It’s on these sites that I see the most counterfeits and scams.
- Choose sellers who guarantee the authenticity of the stone.
- As a general rule: consider a sapphire that is sold as natural but is pretty, colorful, well transparent and affordable to be questionable. You should easily find proof of its authenticity on the seller’s website. If this isn’t the case, if you still have doubts or if the description is unclear, don’t bother.
- Googling specific terms can help. Remember to add your specifications such as “heated”, “Ceylon” or “from Cambodia”. This won’t guarantee the ethics or quality of the results, but it will give you a more precise search.
You’ll also understand my dismay at the sellers’ lack of transparency and detail. - Remember that “cheap” often means synthetics, imitations, heavy treatments and/or a production circuit that doesn’t respect the environment and human beings.
Eco-Responsibility And Labels
Gold and Precious Metals
- Fairmined Gold: The Fairmined label certifies that precious metals have been mined responsibly, respecting strict standards of human rights, fair working conditions and environmental protection. It is managed by the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM).
- Fairmined Ecological Gold: The Fairmined Ecological label is even more stringent, focusing specifically on reducing the environmental impact of mining practices, with an emphasis on reducing the use of toxic chemicals such as mercury and cyanide. It imposes stricter standards for water resource management, mine site rehabilitation and greenhouse gas emissions reduction than the Fairmined standard.
- Fairtrade Gold: The Fairtrade Gold label guarantees responsible gold mining practices and direct support for local mining communities.
- Initiative de l’Industrie Minérale Responsable (IRMA): Although focused on metals, IRMA promotes responsible mining practices in terms of human rights, environmental impact and transparency in supply chains.
- Recycled gold and silver: It’s also a good idea to invest in jewelry made from recycled metals like recycled gold or recycled silver!
Colored Stones
- RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council): The RJC is an international organization that certifies ethical and responsible practices throughout the jewelry supply chain, including sapphires. They have standards for human rights, working conditions, business ethics and environmental management.
- Sustainably Mined Gemstones Initiative: This initiative aims to promote traceability and sustainable mining practices for gems, including sapphires, in partnership with organizations such as the Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative (EITI) and the International Development Association (IDA).
- Recycled stones: Some brands specialize in the use of recycled stones to create unique pieces, promote circular production and give these pieces of history a new lease of life!
- Second-hand: second-hand jewelry is also a great ethical purchase, full of history! However, care must be taken to select professionals who can guarantee the stone’s characteristics.
Which Jewelry To Choose?
Only other corundums, diamonds and moissanite can scratch sapphire, making it a durable stone. It’s also highly impact-resistant (the fewer inclusions, the better) and water-resistant. Sapphire is therefore extremely versatile and can be used in all its forms!
| Jewelry/Stones type | Wearability |
|---|---|
| Rough stone | ????? |
| Faceted stone | ????? |
| Cabochon stone | ????? |
| Pendant | ????? |
| Earrings | ????? |
| Ring | ????? |
| Bracelet | ????? |
Recommended Brands
COMING SOON
Sources
- https://fairmined.org/
- https://www.responsiblejewellery.com/
- https://www.responsiblemineralsinitiative.org/
- https://www.economie.gouv.fr/dgccrf/qualite-et-conformite-des-bijoux-comportant-des-pierres-gemmes-ou-des-perles
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Lauréline Colliard FGA
FGA Gemmologist, graduate of London's prestigious Gem-A Academy (and former lead 3D animator in the video game industry). Her focus is on research, the ethics of gemstones and their environmental and social impact, and the protection and education of gemstone buyers and enthusiasts.
